Studying Architecture of Informality Matters
Al Moatamadeyah, Imbaba, Giza Governorate, Egypt
My story with informality began when I moved from Al-Mahalla Al-Kubra to Cairo after graduating from architecture school. I was so happy and excited, as I found a new job in a medium-sized office located in Heliopolis known as Masr Al-Gedida. After the interview, I was asked to move as soon as possible to start the job. However, I quickly realized that I didn't know anything about navigating the metropolis of Greater Cairo.
Map of Greater Cairo
The Challenge of Finding an Affordable House
The problem was huge—I needed to find a place to live within a week. It had to be near my workplace, and most importantly, it couldn't exceed 1,000 Egyptian pounds, as my salary was 2,500 EGP. At that time, this salary was considered good, before the recent economic crisis.
I asked anyone I knew who might know someone who could help me find a place to live. Eventually, I found an apartment that I would share with a friend of mine. The location was in Ezbet Al Nakhl, near the Ain Shams Metro station. It was relatively close to Heliopolis, with about 30 minutes of travel time between the Metro and a microbus shuttle. I was happy to have found this place, but I didn’t realize that this was my first encounter with what is called informality.
Balancing Work and Study in Greater Cairo
During this time, I should mention that I was also pursuing my master’s degree at Cairo University. Twice a week, I had to rush from the office, spending around an hour and a half to reach Cairo University, located in Giza Governorate, which is part of Greater Cairo.
This was the hardest period of my life. I didn’t have time to process the daily rollercoaster I was dealing with. Coming from Al-Mahalla, a city that pales in comparison to Cairo in terms of scale and everything else, made the experience even more overwhelming.
Observing the Unfamiliar
I was living each day as an observer of something I didn’t fully understand. Gradually, I started to notice certain things that made me more familiar with the environment. I began to recognize patterns that I could relate to, but it was always challenging to grasp what was really happening on the streets—the chaotic everyday life and the overwhelming traffic jams. Even though I figured out how to navigate my day, that didn’t mean I understood how things worked here. It remained beyond my reach while I was immersed in it.
Decision to Leave
Things took a turn for the worse. I couldn’t focus on working, studying, and living there all at once. I left the office to focus on my studies, and after passing the exams of the first semester, I found another job with a professor from college in Maadi. However, Maadi was an hour and a half from my home, and after just one month, I couldn’t continue any longer.
I decided to pack my things and return to my hometown of Al-Mahalla. I told myself I would figure out my next steps once I was back home. Shortly after, I left Egypt to work abroad in Doha, and in doing so, I forgot about trying to understand the chaos of Cairo, though I still had memories of it.
That year in Cairo was one where I could have achieved much on every level, as I was a fresh, enthusiastic architecture graduate. However, the reality of life in Cairo disrupted everything.
Rediscovering Informality
After a few years, I joined an architecture master’s program in Germany. During the first year of studying, I wasn’t particularly focused on any specific topic. However, everything changed when I met an amazing professor “Ivan Kucina” who was already working on the subject of informality. I came across Architectures of Informality. I got so excited and thought to myself, "This is something I’ve experienced and lived through—it's time to focus on this topic and revisit those memories."
I was fortunate that Kucina became my thesis advisor. From the very first day, I introduced myself and shared my background, including the events of the 25th Revolution and my confusion about informality. It was time to focus on this topic, as discussions on informality are rare in typical architecture school discourse.
Revisiting Informality: Research and Reflection
Along with my memories and experiences, I gathered a list of readings on the phenomenon that helped me understand and explore important questions. One of the key issues was the significant role informality plays in providing affordable housing. Greater Cairo’s informal settlements have provided the only housing solutions for low-income earners and rural migrants, similar to my own situation. These settlements house over 65% of Greater Cairo's population. Thus, they are not marginal features in the real estate market; instead, they play an essential role in the housing sector.
Beyond Stereotypes: A Deeper Understanding
During my study, I was determined not to fall into the trap of stereotypical generalizations that fail to reflect the complexity of the phenomenon and its impact on millions of lives. As David Sims explained in Understanding Cairo, “The words chaotic, overcrowded, cacophonous, disorganized, polluted, dirty, and so on are quick to use by observers, policymakers, professionals as well as Egyptians. For them, Greater Cairo represents all that is backward and undisciplined, the antithesis of what modern Egyptian society should be.”
Thus, addressing the architecture of informality became a challenging issue that required going beyond these stereotypes. It was about recognizing the potential of informality as an alternative architectural discourse that confronts the shortcomings of modern development in a challenging environment.
Socioeconomic Challenges and the Architect's Role
The socioeconomic problems associated with informality also became a central concern. These areas and their inhabitants are often marginalized, facing not only political inequality but also social exclusion. This was obvious to me while working on high-end gated community projects for the wealthy few, where little attention was given to the urban needs of the majority. The daily activities of informal dwellers are mostly hindered by poor living conditions and inadequate infrastructure. Addressing the socioeconomic well-being of these communities is a must.
My study of informality aimed to go beyond the immediate needs – which are indeed important – to address the broader and deeper issues, while understanding the potential within the status quo. Of course, there are numerous ways to approach the problem of informality. I wanted to question the role of the architect in these communities, and also examine the roles of major participants like the government with its top-down policies, NGOs, charity organizations, and, most importantly, the inhabitants themselves—the largest stakeholders.
A Transformative Journey
This study was an eye-opening and mind-opening journey for me, a truly transformative experience. I encourage everyone who can study these complex topics to do so, especially now when the challenges are greater than ever. It is crucial for us as architects to relate to such significant problems in our cities.
To be continued with more details about the topic of informality in Cairo.
